I'm going to start adding slightly larger images (700 px) to the blog. Let's see how that works out. I have a bunch of prints to get out today - but then I'm going to start looking more seriously into the next PC. (This took 12 minutes to sharpen @ full scan size of 5400). There are two sharpenings with Pixel Genius - first one is on the original full size (non-destructive) and that's what takes a long time. Then there is a second sharpening depending on the output device. Obviously for the web, this is quick. And even for say an 8 x 12 - painless enough. But if you are dealing with big files - watch out unless you've got the horsepower.
Oh, and in case you wonder - why bother with all that - the results are the reason. The prints I've done after going through this sharpening process have a very smooth transition between edges that looks sharp and yet natural. I guess it's that little extra difference - but it's worth it.
3 comments:
Craig - there's a good test. You can download a fully functioning demo from PixelGenius (works for 7 days). PhotoKit Sharpener
Also - you are scanning your negs. at a lower res. than I am..
Try it. A couple of tips:
If you are scanning in grayscale you'll need to convert files to 16-bit / RGB for the sharpener to work. It shows up under the automate menu. And - definitely look at the instruction manual which is quite good.
One option, after its done its thing is to collapse the layers it creates into one sharpened adjustment layer. Don't just flatten the image - it won't work right. See the manual about how to flatten the sharpened set. You'll see what I mean when you do it.
It's way beyond unsharp masking. It's creating edge masks. This can be done with other programs - and even with a couple of clicks in Photoshop with Find Edges, Color Select etc.
But this is much smarter than I am about what is appropriate for what output device and does a much better job - with stuff like lots of angled lines, or minimizing grain while accenting edges. It also gives you the ability to adjust (in the layers it creates) sharpening based on shadow, or highlight...
And I've always found that I need to do a print to see how sharpening is working. You can get an approximate idea of what's going on when you look at about 50% view - but things that may appear too sharp on the screen - may look perfect on the inkjet. Just a different media.
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